Icebergs Dining Room and Bar // Sydney, Australia
Majestic blue waves rise then fall with a thunderous crash , dissipating into a white foam that elegantly creeps back out into the sea. Icebergs has one of the best vantage points for Bondi Beach gazing. Sure, you can do it from the nearby park with bench, but here you’ve got cool, class and oh so wicked cocktails.
It’s another lunch seating for Bond and Miss Money Penny. Two chef hats distinguish the menu so food delights are expected.
Nikolai, a man with gentle yet piercing blue eyes that would make you trust him with your life, is one of those rare breed of waiters that primarily exist only in London. Accommodating, attentive and at your every need. He designs a culinary itinerary from the dishes Bond selects.
First is the twice cooked chicken broth ($22).
// Chicken broth with zucchini flowers //
A few too many handfuls of salt went into the making, for it was inedible. There were some zucchini flowers floating around, and what looked like shredded chicken was whisked egg that created noodles.
// Salt baked gold and purple beetroot salad //
The beetroot salad ($25) fared better. Small roasted beetroot lay atop smooth goats curd. There were a few pigeon sized crumbs of Gorgonzola and I counted a measly half a walnut that was meticulously crumbled around. Top marks for presentation.
// Queensland spanner crab //
The spanner crab with ‘Venetian’ style polenta ($28) was the best of the three entrees. The polenta was well prepared - not too grainy nor too sloppy. Yet a little more chilli would have been perfect.
// Wild Hand Diver Hervey Bay scallops //
Someone didn’t screw the oil dispenser on properly out in the kitchen for the next dishes were an oily mess. The Hervey Bay scallops ($24), though well cooked, were swimming in the glistening gold stuff. No sign of tomato, green chilli or garlic. Just a whole heap of radish salad.
// Carpaccio of Petuna ocean trout //
The carpaccio of ocean trout ($28) might have had some salty tang to it, if it hadn’t been drowned in oil. The horseradish cream lacked fire and looked like it had been squeezed from an Ikea tube of fish paste.
There was also the spaghetti of clams ($24) which also suffered under the oil leak.
Our last meal was the market fish of the day, snapper ($49). Roasted then grilled for a paper thin crispy crust. The look took me back to Ibiza, the taste didn’t. Although the fish was tasty and well cooked. With just the right amount of lemon it was a satisfactory meal.
There was no time nor enthusiasm for dessert. The service was a the speed of a long lazy lunch, which we didn’t have time for but given that’s our fault. We should have expressed that at the beginning - although I do remember the waitress at Est. asking if we were on a time limit before the meal commenced. I thought was very thoughtful. That’s a three hat service I guess.
// Interior //
Icebergs is a place that has to be ticked off on the Sydney Eats map. If only for the view at the mellow yellow smile to the sky that is Bondi Beach. And their cherry caprioskas.
It still counts as a place to be seen. Diners have a certain affluence to be able to lounge around on a weekday having lunch so far from the Sydney offices.
The ambience at Icebergs will save it from bad words that may be said at the kitchen. It’s like no other restaurant in the world.
1 Notts Ave
Bondi Beach NSW 2026 Australia
Tel. +61 2 9365 9000